Wildlife on Sea Lion Island

Simon Watts
Southampton Oceanography Centre

The Falkland Islands are often envisaged as being a windswept barren grassland that lie in one of the most hostile parts of the ocean. Indeed many of the staff that use Port Stanley as a starting point for scientific research cruises often only have negative comments about the Falklands. However, many visitors never get out of Port Stanley itself, and have missed the wealth of fascinating places to visit. There are many lodges situated around the islands which offer food and accommodation; they are superb bases to use in order to explore. The lodges are serviced by an Air Taxi run by the Falkland Islands Government (FIGAS) which operates from Port Stanley Airport.

Prior to a cruise aboard the RRS James Clark Ross (left) in 1992, I took the opportunity to explore a small island off the south coast. Sea Lion Island lies 10 miles south of the main East Falkland Isle - it measures only 5 miles by 1.5 miles but boasts to the best hotel in the Falklands, as well as 49 species of birds, a huge population of Elephant Seals and many other forms of flora and fauna. We stayed in the lodge for two nights which was barely enough time to get to know the island, and apart from the lodge owner and staff we had the island to ourselves (indeed the lodge only has six rooms so you can almost be assured of a not seeing another person all day!).

We set off from the lodge and headed south, and within a few minutes had come across a colony of Magellanic Penguins - when you hear them you will know why the locals call them Jack Ass penguins! These birds were quite shy and tended to bolt for their burrows and bray an alarm to the other penguins in the colony. Further south we climbed up to the top of the highest cliffs on the island where we were greeted by a huge colony of King Cormorants and Rockhopper penguins. The cormorants had constructed nests made out of mud that stood about 12 inches high, whereas the Rockhoppers had cleverly taken advantage of this by nesting on the bare rock in between the mud nests, thereby being sheltered from the harsh South Atlantic wind. The cliffs at this point were 80 feet high, not huge by human standards but surely a massive challenge for the penguins. There is only one spot on the cliff where they could make their ascent; the incline easing just enough for them to be able to climb up. The scratches on the rocks here indicated that this path had probably been used for many many years. We watched for hours as the penguins rode in on a wave, then at its highest point would cling to the rock as the wave subsided, they would then make a mad dash to get high enough in order to not be washed off by the next wave. They were often unsuccessful. It was amazing that they were not pounded to death against the rocks but in the end they would always make it to the top of the cliff.

Magellenic Penguin

Rockhopper Penguin

King Cormorant

Magellenic Snipe

Rounding the southern tip of the island we spotted a Killer Whale on patrol - a pod of whales has lived here for many years having been attracted by the abundance of seals. No trees can grow on the Falklands but tussock grass has grown in its place. This grass when mature grows up to 13 feet high and provides refuge for many different species - while walking through this forest of grass we were lucky enough to spot a pair of Magellanic Snipe. They are very timid creatures but decided to sit still and hope we didn’t come any closer. Other species we spotted were the Striated Caracara and Turkey Vulture. It seemed quite strange seeing vultures here but they were quite at home on the island.

Above and right: Striated Caracara

Turkey Vulture

Sea Lion	A bit further north the tussock grass provides shelter for the islands’ Sea Lion population. You have to be careful not to startle them as they can be very quick and aggressive, unfortunately for us (or maybe fortunately depending on your point of view) it was too early in the season to see them, however we were lucky enough to spot one sunning itself on a large rock. Later we came across a colony of Gentoo Penguins; they were quite hilarious to watch. A group came ashore as we were passing and decided to make a run for it - they reminded us of a group of nuns trying to run but tripping over their robes. The nesting birds used small piles of stones to nest on, and while one went off to collect a stone, another would steal stones from the vacant nest. This would seem to go on all day.
Gentoo Penguins	At the north end of the island we came across a golden sand beach that was littered with hundreds of Elephant Seals. They were arranged in harems with a dominant male having up to 40 females under his protection. Immature males would wait around the edges of the harem awaiting a chance to depose the dominant male. Fights would often break out between the males - it was hugely impressive watching these three or four tonne creatures fighting, they would often end with them being badly cut and possibly even death for the loser. On a lighter note the females would just sit and look at you (although it is important not to get too close) while the pups would bark at you then dash for cover behind their mum.


Elephant Seals

While we were there we saw many other species including breeding Giant Petrels, Flightless Steamer Ducks and a single King Penguin that seemed to stand and pose for the camera. We only spent two nights on the island before going off to explore other parts of the Falklands, but this tiny dot of land has left a lasting impression on me. It was like being on safari, but on one that you did not need a Land Rover and long lens to get the merest glimpse of the animals. The lodge was extremely comfortable - it prided itself on its cooking and fine wine list.

	Steamer Ducks
King Penguin	Magellenic Oystercatcher